Despite the fact that some people had warned me there would be a lot of sitting about and waiting I was looking forward to it. My friend went through my wardrobe and pulled out my most sparkly peron (tunic top) and told me to wear that but to find some sparkly shoes, bag and chador to go with it. After a quick shopping spree I managed to do just that. And so it was that dressed in my sparkly but not that sparkly outfit I found myself in a taxi going to one of Kabul's wedding halls.
When we arrived my friend and I were escorted to the female side of the party and my friends male family were escorted to the male side - this would be the last time we saw them until we left.
As we walked into the hall a seemingly impossible sight my met eyes. There must have been at least two hundred women plus children dressed in their best clothes. The vast majority of women were wearing what can only be described as ballgowns with so much glitter, sequins and sparkle that if the light shone on them they looked like mirror balls! We were ushered to a table and gradually we were introduced to every female member of the bride's family and friends. Every greeting involved maybe 5 or 6 cheek kisses and lots of how are yous...we were made to feel like the guest of honour as people queued to have their photos taken with us.
My Dari was put to the test with the conversations about brides, food, babies and all those things women everywhere talk about. Then sweets were passed round, this signified that the wedding had taken place and that the bride (who were yet to lay eyes on) was now a wife. Just as the last sweets came out the bride and groom arrived in matching green outfits.
As they arrived so did the food. We ate like queens - pilau, mantou, firni and apples. The traditional wedding feast, all washed down with coca cola! It was then that I noticed the women around us had changed their clothes. The female relations of the bride (sisters and cousins) that were already married had changed into their green wedding dresses! There were now at least 20 women in the room dressed as brides!
Then the dancing began, even the 5 year old girls seemed to know how to dance and the older women watched as the younger ones danced to the beat of drummers (who were sitting in the men's side and being amplified into the ladies' side). And then it was time for us to leave, several of the women escorted us to where the men from our party were waiting for us, and with a lot more kissing we said our goodbyes.
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| A Kabul Wedding Hall |
